Cairngorm Mountains ~ Ben Macdui 02/05/2010
Driving along the shores of Loch Morlich, on route to Glenmore Lodge, a smile made it onto my face; I could see that the clouds were above the Cairngorm summits. I was looking forward to walking with my clients to Ben Macdui, one of my favourite walks in Scotland. I so wanted them to see their surroundings, rather than just cloud. All fuelled up by a lovely cooked breakfast we began our ascent up the broad Fiacaill a’Choire Chais ridge to the 1141m cairn, offering fine views into the snow covered sheer cliffs of Stob Coire an t-Sneachda, with the sight of this, one client almost began to dance with joy being in this environment and feeling free of the rat race of the big city, whilst another was suffering from cold but was drawn on by the exhilaration of being out in the hills again. 100ft from the cairn the snow had turned to ice so it was time for the trusty ice axe. With some encouragement and hard work the group made it to the top of the ridge. As we made our way over part of the Northern corries the weather became a little less stable and cloud kept pushing in over the tops. As we turned to start walking over the 3000ft + plateau towards Ben Macdui I could make out some snow holes, so we made a short detour towards them, which we then all dived in like rabbits into their burrows, to try them out for comfort. After examining the maker’s efforts and not wanting to get to comfortable in our burrows / snow holes we poked our noses out, ensured it wasn’t snowing and carried on. The snow was crusty on the surface but as I applied my weight my boots would sink deeply into the snow, which brought much satisfaction to the girls in the group as they seemed to just stay on the surface and glide gracefully onwards with little effort. Putting the blame firmly on the weight of my sack rather than the huge breakfast I consumed earlier we began the ascent of Ben Macdui. The girls were now in front as I trudged on through what was for me, deep snow! On reaching the summit the cloud decided it would drop and spoil our views across the Lairig Ghru to Cairn Toul and Braeriach. However, spirits were high in the group for reaching the summit of the second highest mountain in the UK. With a few photos taken, we didn’t hang about as the wind was biting; we made our way back onto the plateau but this time towards Lurchers Crag and thankfully below the cloud level. Sat on the rocks upon Lurchers Crag we gazed down at the majestic Lairig Ghru, blown away by its size, the sheer cliffs on both sides and its remoteness. As we made our way down towards our vehicle the clouds lifted and cleared revealing blue skies and as we looked back at the Northern corries I said “ I wished it was like that for you” the reply was “ it could of been alot worse but we’ve had a fantastic day and an experience we won’t forget, thank you”! Driving up to Glenmore Lodge i was hoping for weather that it had forecast which would give me the conditions i wanted to take my clients up onto the Cairngorm plateau and then onto the stunning walk across to Ben Macdui. However, it was far worse with huge lakes in the road and persistent rain coming down i had to resort to an alternate that would give us some cover but also give us some height. After discussing with my clients the different options, I decided on a relatively low level walk through forests to keep us as dry as possible and then during the afternoon come out into the open and gain some height. Setting off in dry conditions from the remote and stunning location of Whitewell, we began to walk through the forests of the Rothiemurchus estate, looking closely for any signs of wildlife. The trees kept on breaking allowing us views down onto moors and high mountains. We soon arrived at the beautiful Loch an Eilein with its castle ruin located not too far from the water’s edge. This loch is surrounded by Caledonian pines and behind them hills and mountains rise up sharply, we stopped here for a short while to soak up the atmosphere and stick our hands in the loch to see how cold it was. Brrrrrrr too cold for a swim! Continuing on we made our way along a track which wound its way across heather moors with Caledonian pines, spruce and occasional juniper trees as well as passing small lochans, small burns and rushing rivers. After crossing an open meadow we turned and began to ascend through pine trees, but as we gained height the pine woods got thinner until suddenly we were out in the open moorland looking directly into the unmistakable V of the Lairig Ghru. We slowly made our way up the Lairig to a height of 2000ft where we stopped at the crossing of the water / snow for lunch. After our quick lunch it was time to head on as our hands were getting so cold we could barely move them, so we went Northeast up out of the Lairig towards the rocky Chalamain gap, but just before entering this narrow gap we made a quick ascent of Creag a’ Chalamain at 2582ft. Photos taken, and with the wonders of nature appreciated we dropped down to tackle the boulders that covered the surface of the gap (Crossing the gap can be like hopscotch, jumping from one boulder to another). From here it was onto soft snow and then back onto a well made path across a heather moor which gave us stunning views Southeast to Cairngorm mountain and the Northern corries which were still well covered in snow. We dropped down further into Glenmore forest alongside rushing white water and returned to Glenmore Lodge for an eager drink or two. What a great day and one well spent in the forests well below the high tops where the weather was to fickle to make any hard ascent worthwhile. Waking to what seemed to be a better day, the group and I soon consumed a good breakfast and felt fired up for a pleasent day 'Graham bashing' above Loch Ness. It was good to set off from the Grotaig car park as it rid our stomachs of the after effects of the white knuckle ride of the single track road, which felt like a roller coaster in places. I love this walk, which i have now done for the fourth time, it starts with a gentle walk through woodlands which then gives way, as you gain height, to the moors of the hillside. Once the main Northeastern ridge of Meall Fuar-mhonaidh was gained, walking became reletively easy on a worn path, slowly gaining height with stunning views Northeast along Loch Ness and out towards the Moray Firth. The weather seemed to be holding with just the odd shower of light snow, the group continued to smile away with the distraction of the extensive views opening up around them. Once at the top we could see for miles all around us with Ben Nevis just showing its lower slopes and out West we could see the Mountains of the Glen Affric range including the Mountain we had done the day before in blizzard like conditions. After a brief bite of our sandwiches, as the wind was biting us, it was on Southwest down the ridge and onto the open moor towards Glas-bheinn Mhor. After one of the group found the best cover to be found from the cold breeze we settled into a more leasurely lunch at the side of a loch at the foot of our next objective. After the usual jelly baby distribution we left our sacks here and made a beeline for the summit, again to be greeted by stunning views in all directions. With the congratulations done it was time to head back to our sacks and head to the Northeastern ridge of our first hill to get back to our vehicles. One of the group mentioned a drink at a pub he found in the best pub guides, i happened to know it!, so with a skip in our step we soon ended up in the local pub, part of the Benleva Hotel. With drinks, jokes, laughs and with story telling all round it was time to leave and make our way home. The end of another great walking weekend. Look forward to the next one! 'Pictures Here' Glen Affric ~ Tom a' Choinich 17/04/2010
Saturday morning over breakfast the group and us guides were shocked to find it wasn't raining, as the night before it had forecast very poor weather. Feeling pretty happy with ourselves at our luck we got packed up, wished Gideon and his group a good day and got in the cars only to be greeted by the on slaught of rain. However, driving across to Glen Affric the weather actually improved so our sprits rose. After dropping off a few cars further back up the road, at our intended finishing point, we were off along the same route that Gideon and I had done only the day before in stunning weather. I noticed that the path off the track alongside the river was wetter than the previous day and the small burn crossings were much more interesting, 'i like to keep things exciting'! As we headed up the ridge the weather changed and snow soon began to fall and it got worse once we got onto the high plateau that led to the summit cairn. High winds battered us, snow was horizontal and spin drift whipped up from our feet into our faces, this was truly winter conditions again and the group coped with it admirably. I left the group at the summit cairn whilst i checked out the decent route conditions, on my return i had all on walking back to them against the 60mph winds and snow battering my face, much to the amusement of the group. Our decent down a ridge was slippy but i knew with guidance the hardened group could cope, we found the best spot we could out of the wind and opened up our well deserved lunches and warm drinks. Over lunch i made the decision to go down and not do the next Munro due to the weather, white out conditions, time and what the group had already gone through. There were some happy faces and some sad ones, but for those who were saddened they soon cheered up once i mentioned a drink at 'The Slaters Arms'. A good day was had by all and a great sense of acheivement in reaching the summit of a Munro in harsh conditions. 'Pictures Here' With a group booked for a walking event over the weekend at Loch Ness, my friend and fellow guide Gideon and i were discussing the routes for the weekend over a pint and a lovely meal in the Winking Owl in Aviemore. With a reasonably good weather forecast for the Friday we decided to check out the ground conditions on Tom a' Choinich at 3648ft and Toll Creagach at 3458ft in Glen Affric. Waking to a stunning day, which was better than forecast i set off and caught up with Gideon at the Clansman Hotel alongside Loch Ness on the A82. The drive towards Glen Affric was stunning and both of us just wanted to stop the car every 5mins to take pictures, but we had only so much time in the day. Setting off from the parking area up Gleann nam Fiadh, we marvelled at the snow on the mountains and the clear blue skies, it was incredibly warm and the smiles on our faces just got bigger, the further up the Glen we walked. As we climbed the Southeastern ridge on Tom a' Choinich called Creag na h-Inghinn, we were well and truly roasted, but the views to the whole Affric range were spectacular and pulled us on. The cornices where huge on the Easten corries which also showed signs of previous small avalanches which had previously taken place. Looking further West, our decision to climb these two peaks proved to be a wise choice as everything looked far to snow covered to take a group and with our knowledge of the terrain it would of proved far to difficult. After what was a spectacular day on the hill we were in need of some liquid refreshment and made our way back to Cannich to enjoy a pint at 'The Slatters Arms'. Whilst there we discovered the existence of a 'Jockalope'?? it's true! Look it up on the web. 'Pictures Here' Cairngorm Mountains ~ Northern Corries 13/04/2010
It's always a pleasure meeting a new client and today i was to take them round a small area of my local Mountains, the Cairngorms. We talked in the car on the way up to Glenmore, about what experience she had on the hills and what she wanted to acheive during the day. I enjoyed listening to her stories of her travels around the world and what she had done previously with her walking club. After discussing some options we made the decision to do a circular walk over the Northern Corries. We began our ascent up the Fiacaill a' Choire Chais ridge from the ski centre car park in dry conditions with snow on the ground, the higher we got the more dramatic the scenery became and the more you felt a sense of remoteness. At the top of the ridge against the 1141m cairn we quickly got something to eat and drink. To reward our efforts the cloud moved above the summits and we could see the large cornices hanging low over the edge of the corries before us. With a big smile on her face we continued our journey of discovery together walking through soft snow, making life a little hard but bearable. On reaching the top of Coire an t-Sneachda, the cloud again allowed us the pleasure of some glimpses of the mountains surrounding us. It always brings a smile to my face when i can see what pleasure the achievement of reaching the high mountains brings to the faces of my clients. Continuing on, the last steep ascent lay before us onto the 4000ft + top of Cairn Lochan. As we climbed, we continuosusly walked into white out conditions testing my navigational skills and terrain knowledge to the limit. We finally reached the summit cairn and i congratulated her, we were able to quickly get some quick pictures of each other standing on the top with the cornices behind us. As we made our decent the clouds parted revealing a blue sky and the sun shone down lighting up the Northern Corries of the Cairngorms dramatically. I was sadddened for her that we could not experience that on the tops, but as she said, it could of been worse and i've had a smashing day, thank you! Curing Boredom 08/03/2010
Whilst recovering from my operation i kept looking outside at the glorious winter weather of blue skies and sunshine, the hills were so white and thick with snow and i wasn't able to get out there on them. So i drove North to the Southeastern end of Sutherland through to Bonar Bridge and Lairg, the sun illuminating every snow covered mountain around, they all looked breath taking, i had all on keeping my eye on the road. In this area there was no snow on the ground but this contrasted well with this stunning mountain that rose up behind Lairg. I have never seen Ben Klibreck look so inviting to climb as it did that day covered in snow, i remember climbing it some years previously and it was far from one of my favorites, i think mainly because at the time the weather was poor and i remember the walk in was a bog trot. As much as it was a pleasure to see this mountain in a different light it was time to head back but i decided to go East via Golspie. On arrival there i treated myself to fish and chips on the shore line looking out to sea, across the water in the distance i could see the snow capped mountains of the Cairngorms...wow...someone did mention to me that you could see them from here but i had never experienced it for myself. I enjoyed my day out, i may of not been out in the hills or walking down a Glen but i saw a very small part of Scotland that i dont often see in the winter, today it showed itself off at it's best! Snow Has Returned 29/01/2010
Been snowing on and off overnight here in Aviemore. so its been a quick turn around from rapid thaw to freezing temps again. This fresh snow has had a icy firm base to settle on and its good to see it back to make everything look bright and clean again. Its forecast snow showers for the day and this will build on the couple of inchs that have fallen already and obviously this has built on the lying snow that we have had down since early December. Have fun! Munro Bagging ~ Ben Cruachan 12/12/2009
My first intention for this walk was to drive across the night before and sleep in the car at the foot of this great Mountain. However, the tempreture in Aviemore had been constantly -7C or more for a few nights so the warmth of a cosy bed got the better of me and i decided to get up at 5:00 in the morning then drive across. As i headed across to the West Highlands that morning the tempretures rose to a barmey -1C and the weather was as promised, cloudless skies and sunshine. There have not been many mountains that i have i had to turn back on for whatever reason but this one 'Ben Cruachan' at 3694ft was one of them, this was my third return to this mountain, i had previously been beaten off by weather on the previous occasions, but this day was mine and i was getting excited about the climb. The first 1000ft feet up past the railway station and up towards the dam time soon passed and already i was seeing views South towards the hills around Loch Lomond and the sun just rising above the hills in the East. After climbing the ladder onto the dam itself, i began the easy walk on the track along the Westside of the reservoir which gave me views of the stunning horseshoe ridge which joins Ben Cruchan to its sister Munro, Stob Diamh at 998ft. It would of been great to do the ridge today, as snow was down to about 3000ft and would make a great outing, but this was not my aim and it would be good to return with a friend and share the experience. The next 1500ft was up Coire Dearg by a path made and worn down by walkers, through peat, rock and grass following a wee burn, this truly is a stunning Coire with the ever changing views and the big hills around you. Soon i was on the col and very close now to the snow line. A few more hundred feet and i hit the snow which was still very hard due to the frost, my boots were slipping and it was time to put the crampons on, wonderful inventions! It was a fantasic climb up onto the summit, a gorgeous day on the top giving me views for miles in all directions. After spending 20mins or so there i headed West along the ridge to the 1104ft top then retraced my steps to a col before skirting the Southwest side of Ben Cruachan to reach the col at the top of Coire Dearg. From there is was a short climb onto Meall Cuanail at 918ft then South along a boggy moor to reach a track which led me back down to the reservoir. Munro Bagging ~ Beinn Mhanach 30/11/2009
Sometimes getting prepared for a day out on the hill also means getting mentally prepared for the drive. Fortunately i was just that and after looking out the window at the good covering of snow on the ground, the hard frost and the dark skies, my mind just hung onto the forecast which stated far better weather in the West (for a change!!). I had what i will discribe as an interesting 2 hour drive to Auch just 5km north of Tyndrum, the snow level was higher here but the skies were practically clear of cloud and the sun was shining, it was one of those wow days! where deep snow covered the higher reaches of every mountain. Ben Lawers looked absolutely amazing to the point where i nearly changed my plans for the day just to experience this stunning mountain in winter conditions, but the pull of doing Beinn Mhanach drew me on. After parking up i began my long walk in on what was at first a tarmac road past Auch farm. The local game keepers dogs were up and barking loudly spoiling the peacefulness of this Glen. As i walked past i noticed a rather cute little black dog who sat quietly and happerly under some trees, this brought a smile to my face, so i said hello. A few moments later i realised something had attached itself firmly to my ankle, turning round i noticed the cute little black dog had attached itself with its teeth to what he must of thought was breakfast. I gently shook it off and fended it away using my trekking poles, fortunately it had only left its marks in my trousers. After just over an hour itwas time for a very steep ascent through heather, grass and boulders covered in ice and a dusting of snow, this made the climb slightly harder and but more interesting, the views around me, which slowly opened up with height, just kept me motivated. Very soon i was kicking steps in the deep snow and ice and gleeful thoughts of playing in the hills in winter filled my mind. On the top is was bitterly cold and the views all around me were stunning, i walked towards the cairn in the distance and by the time i got there i had lost sensation in my nose and cheeks. From here it was a drop down onto the track far below, sometimes you just really dont want to leave but i had the dimming daylight against me, so i made my way down and retraced my steps back to the car, with a smile on my face. |